20% Plus Protein Kibble with 600g to 700g Meat makes a 75% to 80% protein diet which is very low on available energy for Race dogs

Example Diet

1% of bodyweight in Carbohydrate - Bread Rice Oat Vegetables
26kg bitch 260g dry weight Carb - 38kg 380g dry weight fed Half morning half night
20mil Omega 3 6 & 9 Oil Morning and Night (there is no weight in Oil - just Calories)
Double the dose Morning Prior to race that night Morning of event if night meeting 40mil 4hrs prior to race time not kennel time
500g Meat for Dog 400g for bitch is the guide Larger Dog extra 50g meat
Meat can be Beef Chicken Roo Horse (Brumby no drugs) or in combinations.
You can add chopped vegs to the bread rice etc
Silver beet, Celery, Parsley, Carrot etc
Egg whites (Albumim is high form of muscle protein) Ideal for after race recovery)
Egg yolk is high percent fat so you can use instead of the Oil at times
(Edited by Admin)

FEEDING TO WIN
GRAHAM BEH

One of the most commonly asked questions of vets is, "Can you tell me if the diet I am feeding my greyhound is the best for it?"
The modern greyhound trainer has become very health conscious in the preparation of his/her dog's diet.
With the aid of blood tests and blood counts, science has been able to formulate diets, which, with the judicious use of supplements, will provide a correct balance of all the nutrients the greyhound requires.
The basic ingredients of any diet are protein, carbohydrates, fats, fibre, vitamins, minerals and fluid.
It is correct balance of these ingredients provided in good quality form, which is essential for the growth and maintenance of your greyhound.
There are a wide range of diets which are fed to greyhounds with varying degrees of success.
The diet, which I will detail, is one I and a large number of trainers have used in the past 10 years.
It provides a range of nutrients, which satisfy the demands of most greyhounds.
Occasionally a greyhound may require larger quantities of nutrients (eg Proteins, vitamins and minerals) to maintain peak health and fitness and these greyhounds can be detected by sub-optimal blood counts when on the standard diet.
They can often be remedied by increasing the intake of the necessary ingredients.
THE MORNING MEAL:
* 1-2 oz kibble (or 4 x 2 biscuit).
* 1 dessertspoon full of wheat germ
* 100mg Vitamin E
* Electrolyte supplement (eg Electrolyte C or Hydrocel)
* Half to one pint of water (flavoured with milk, vegemite, egg yolk etc).
The morning meal is given to provide the dog with some roughage (fibre) and liquids) plus electrolytes) to guard against dehydration in the warmer daylight hours.
Most greyhounds drink very little water and it is necessary to force feed water in this way in the warmer climates.
THE EVENING MEAL:
* 11/4 to 13/4 lbs of meat (24 to 30 kgs give 11/4 to 11/2 lbs; 31 to 38 kgs give 11/2 to 13/4 lbs)
* 4-6 ozs kibble
* 2 oz vegetables (carrots, celery, lettuce, tomato, pumpkin, apple etc)
* Iron tonic (eg Ironcyclin on Mon, Wed, Fri)
* Vitamin supplement (eg Troy Vite B, Feramo D, Gluco-protein on Mon, Wed, Fri)
* Yeast powder, 1 heaped teaspoon on Tues, Wed, Sat.
* Calcium supplement (DCP or Balanced Cal)
* Heartworm tablet.
Fresh water should be left with the greyhound at all times.
The above amounts of meat and kibble are designed as a guide. Some greyhounds will require larger amounts while others will hold their weight on less.
The meat you feed your greyhound can be beef, buffalo, horse or kangaroo meat, however it should have a fat content of approximately 10 percent.
If the meat you feed is completely lean, then you would have to add 2 ozs of fat (eg Suet or lard) to each 1 lb 2 ozs of meat.
Greyhounds on a fat free diet suffer from a dull dry coat, flaky skin and are more prone to dehydration.
The fat content is particularly critical in early winter when the first cold snap causes the dog to shiver to create body heat to keep warm and in doing so it can lose 0.5kg overnight.
While the meat you feed is primarily a source of protein, the kibble and vegetables are fed for their carbohydrate and fibre content as well as the natural vitamins and minerals contained in the vegetables.
The amount you feed is dependent on the size of the greyhound and the amount of work it is doing.
Carbohydrates are burnt to provide energy for the greyhound so the greater the work load the greater the energy food your dog requires.
Conversely if your greyhound is overweight (fat) you either work the dog harder to burn up its fat reserves (be careful if the dog is excessively overweight or it may break down) or you reduce his energy food (kibble) intake.
You do not have to reduce the amount of meat you are feeding.
Also to reduce weight you should eliminate honey, glucose and milk from the diet
Mineral and vitamin supplements are important for optimal performance and yeast is a valuable source of these in a natural form.
Calcium is an essential additive on a meat diet for the adult as well as the young greyhound.
A deficiency in these minerals can cause cramping.
Finally no evening meal is complete without the heartworm tablet for dogs on this medication since six weeks of age or those adult dogs, which have been tested as negative.
Variety can be introduced to the diet by feeding a weekly stew or a milk (3/4 of a pint) and bread (six slices) feed.
Liver, chicken and fish in 4-6 ozs amounts can be exchanged for the same weight of meat in the evening meal.
This will add some variety to the diet as well as being an alternative source of protein.
In conclusion, I would like to say that although it is possible to win races on abattoir mince and dry bread if the greyhound is good enough, that same greyhound, as a canine athlete, will race much better, more consistently and for longer on a balanced diet prepared from good quality ingredients.

I'm not sure if it was the same Uni research you refer to but there was an amazingly thorough research done by an American Uni over a number of years with many Greys. The end result for attaining maximum performance was basically a diet consisting 77% protein, 18% fat, and 5% carbs....give or take a %.
The performance difference was at best MARGINAL on several other combinations.
The more I thought about it the more it became clearer that this ratio wasn't that far from their natural diet, a diet that would typify a wild dog's.
Right or wrong, over the years I've simplified their diet and tried to stay on the "natural" course of feeding.

In my mind, a dog has a motor or it hasn't. It also has the mental capacity to be successful or it hasn't.
If a dog has both qualities he's a winner.
If the trainer has commonsense, the dog is fit, and the basic nutritional requirements are given, the dog continues to be a winner.
If the trainer is a doodlehead, runs the dog unfit, or feeds it crap then the dog disappears into the "bloody dogs" syndrome.

Amazing how resilient a dog can be...up to a point.
Feed enough crap and that is what the results will end up being...CRAP.
Speaking of crap, it's the one true indicator of a proper diet.
If it is the size of an elephant's, you're feeding crap, the dog's system can't cope with the crap, you're overloading the workload of the organs with crap, and eventually you'll get the performance you asked for...crap.

I think Warren is spot on.
Keep it simple. Feed what the dog's system needs and not what makes it work harder.
Simplicity won't make it go faster but it will help to make it go longer.

JMO.

Rice is very high in Glycogen = Muscle fuel
Bread next level down - I hear trainers say I wont feed Bread - What do you think is in Kibble??
The two features of Kibble are
1 The Glossy Bag
2 The food Colour - In every batch to make them look the same - They probably aren't
3 Salt min 1% Massive issues caused by salt
Why feed cooked meat with salt when you already feed fresh meat
Why cook Vegetable, Bread when you can feed fresh.
Anyone wish to guess how much nutrient is "COOKED" out of Kibble
So why the colour and Salt
Colour to make batches look the same
Salt to preserve the Kibble
Trainers tell me it is "Only Fill"
SORRY do you think Usain Bolt would perform on a diet of McDonalds After all "It is only fill"

Remember "You are training an Athlete"
Or are YOU training a Cattle/Sheepdog
Some of the diets I see trainers are feeding are Cattle Dog diets suited to Steve Monagetti (Marathon)
alas you are training Matt Shirvington (Sprinter)
Do you seriously think these two athletes could perform on the others diet.
More importantly if you were travelling 50kms to a Greyhound Track would you expect to get to a track 100kms away with the same amount of fuel in the tank = "NO" Then why do trainers expect Greyhounds to perform over 600m to 700m on the same Diet as a 400 to 500metre Greyhound
You must add more 3rd & 4th Gear fuel = Fat / Fatty Acid YES!! Omega 3 6 & 9 Oil
Please think seriously how many Greyhounds have been crucified by trainers feeding prehistoric Diets
Sports Nutrition has taken leaps and bounds in the last 15 to 20 years but Greyhound Trainers are feeding Diets from 30 years ago

Don't agree with high carb diet as a major energy source.
Digestable carbs in moderation won't harm.
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear can be achieved by the dog's natural energy source...FAT.
Each to their own I guess but the Uni study you researched is not the same as the one I saw.

As I previously said, it's amazing the resilience of the Greyhound....to a point.

Not saying you can't achieve results on your method, just too many potential complications for mine.

Good luck.

Of interest...
EXTERNAL LINK

no short cuts here ! we feed our diet ! that we have put together over the last 20 years ! I've used supplements Vitamins etc until they run out your ears ! no change to the dogs health or ability ! I like to keep our dogs clean inside and wormed every 30 days we use a hand full of additives readily available on the market !
Like I said keep it simple ?
PS- not everything we feed our dogs has to be loaded with something that's supposed to make them faster ! we often feed them food with no upside just plain old food ! A changes is as good a holiday they say !

I will share this document with you

Guide to Nutrition for Greyhound Athletic Performance
Step 1. Worming. Regular worming for Hookworm and Roundworm as well as periodic worming for Tapeworm. Be sure to rotate the brand you use to ensure best results.
Step 2. Kidney and Liver function. High protein diets will place the kidneys and liver of the athletic greyhound under stress. Greyhounds will increase their uptake of water in hotter weather which can increase body weight. KFS Kidney Function Solution can assist reduction of excess fluid in muscles and tissue as well as assisting the inability to pass urine. For best results use every 2nd Day (Odd day numbers).
Step 3. Digestive function can be assisted with Yoghurt. 3 days every now and then particulary after treatments with Antibiotics. Yoghurt will assist to balance digestive function.
Step 4. Blood. Haemoglobin and Red Cell production is a critical factor in the performance of a Racing Greyhound. Iron Boost may assist the quality of blood. For best results use every 2nd Day (Even day numbers).
Step 5. Gut function. Balanced Acid and Alkaline levels in the digestive system are essential for the Greyhound to derive nutrition from the diet. The quality of waste is the best indication of good gut health. Apple Cider Vinegar (8% with Honey and Garlic) Daily morning and night.
Step 6. Supplementing a quality Amino Acid Vitamin Mineral Supplement may assist the general health and wellbeing of the Greyhound athlete. AVM-D offers the B Group Vitamins, Vitamin A,E,C,D,and K, Minerals incl Calcium and Phosphorus, Methionine, Bentonite, Micro Aid, Seaweed meal etc. Add AVM-D nightly on the feed.
Step 7. Essential Body Salts. Essential body salts lost due to panting and heavy exercise need to be replenished. The adage that you cant take out what you dont have in, is true with body salts. Muscle fatigue, Tying up etc resulting in injuries will prove to be costly. K9 Essential Salts with Potassium Chloride, Potassium and Sodium salts, Magnesium Sulphate, Vitamin E, Vitamin C and Malto Dextrin (Carbohydrate) Energy. K9 Essential Salts supplemented mornings daily.
Step 8. Energy. Glow N Go - Omega 3, 6 & 9 Fatty Acid Feed supplement. The correct balance of fuel for racing is essential. Carbohydrate, Fatty Acid and Protein in that order and correctly balanced will go a long way to allowing the Greyhound athlete to perform to the best of its ability. Glow N Go Daily morning and night.
Step 9. Lactic Acid. The effect of Lactic Acid can cause tying up (cramp). Greyhounds on poor nutritional diets that lead in races often finish out of the prize money due to the tightening of muscles. Lactic Acid is the result of exertion caused by heavy exercise. Lactic eze will assist the delay of Lactic Acid build up during races. Lactic Eze over the tongue mornings daily as well as 4 hours prior to racing.

38kg Greyhound
One large cup of EXTERNAL LINK
800 grams of Meat Heart muscle and beef all natural Human grade Fat at least 15% to 10 %
Once a week Fresh human grade Chicken
Veggies and some fruit at times
Natural Tribulus Terrestris
Turmeric Parsley each night on dinner
One marrow bone every week cut in half for a few hours .

300 to 500 ml of water

Morning Milk drink small amount of kibble parsley and some times Bi Carb if i dont get that strong stream of pee ..

Pre race ...Creatine pre load with other ingredients i have suggested above

My dogs stools are at least a third the size of the traditional Corn Wheat rice Filler bread kibbles and my dogs coats and general Health are great and i do agree many do not know how to feed but to label all NATURAL Feeders as old and antiquated and not up with science then i feel you maybe have to train a greyhound in today's environment to fully understand that so many products do hold large amounts of Cobalt and other products

Sometimes certain products can have a accumulated effect this is proven and if you race CLEAN then you have at least in the back of your mind your dogs are clean ....

I have used winning edge and i don't like it for many reasons but STOOL size make a huge difference with any canine athlete.....

I am willing to back the kibble i use up against the Kibble you sell Pete so let's have a blind trial on Winning Edge and VIP grain Free ....

"My Kibble"?? I don't have one - My opinion is that Winning Edge produces the best result if you are going to use one.
The trainers that I deal with about these Diets confirm this
If you are looking for a Higher Fat Kibble because Oil is not fed the Winning Edge Platinum has higher fat component
My general comment is if you believe it is working for you stick to it
As stated previously, You cant turn a Volkswagen into a Ferrari
But you can get the maximum performance out of your Volkswagen with fine tuning